The Niçoise Salad

God, what a mess! Here is a very popular dish that evokes holidays, the South, and the simple pleasures of the table. An elementary recipe: tomatoes, anchovies, and olive oil, that’s it for the purists. But since its origins, everyone has their own take on the salad. Peppers join the tomatoes, tuna accompanies the anchovies, a hard-boiled egg and black olives appear without an invitation; it’s gentrification before its time. Even Escoffier, the "king of chefs," though from a neighboring region, caused scandal by adding—oh sacrilege—potatoes and green beans, barbaric vegetables from the cold. And anyway, why is this simple tomato salad called "Niçoise"? The writer Jules Romains might be to blame, as he wanted to add a touch of exoticism for his Parisian readers. But there is hope, this dish is also appreciated in Italy; the "condiglione" brings people together!