Of course, the tradition is Belgian. But here in Lille, capital of Nord-Pas-de-Calais, moules-frites are also at home. The recipe for moules frites, à la marinière, is the most widespread. Cooked in wine, shallots, parsley and butter, they’re a real treat. As for the fries, local shopkeepers know what they’re doing. Convivial, it’s one of France’s favorite dishes, with no fuss or snobbery, just finger-licking goodness.